Can Your Shoes Be Resoled? Determining by Construction

The construction decides

The ability to resole a shoe is decided by its construction, not by the brand or the price. Three construction methods dominate: welted, cemented, and molded. Welted soles are attached with stitching through a strip of leather, cemented soles are glued to the upper, and molded soles are fused in place during manufacturing. The repair options are different for each.

Before you buy, flip the shoe over and look at the sole edge. If you see a visible seam or a stacked leather edge, you are likely looking at a welted shoe. If the sole meets the upper with no seam and a thin line of glue, it is cemented. If the sole and upper appear to be one continuous piece with no visible boundary, it is molded.

Welted shoes: made to be resoled

Welted shoes are the classic resoleable design. The upper is leather, and the sole is stitched to a leather or rubber strip called the welt. A repair shop can remove the worn sole, stitch a new one, and in many cases replace the heel as well. This is why high-quality dress shoes and many leather work boots use this method. The upper, which takes years to break in, gets to stay while the sole is renewed. Two common variants are the Goodyear welt and the Blake stitch. The Blake stitch vs. Goodyear welt ankle boots comparison explains the difference.

When you shop, look for the word welt in the product description. Many makers state whether a shoe is Goodyear-welted or Blake-stitched. If the description is silent, check the sole edge in person. A welted shoe will show the stitching and the welt.

Cemented shoes: repairable with limits

Cemented soles are the most common in everyday shoes. The sole is glued to a midsole or directly to the upper. A cobbler can sometimes resole a cemented shoe: the old sole is peeled off, the surface cleaned, and a new sole glued on. This works best when the upper is still structurally sound. Sneakers, walking shoes, and many casual shoes are cemented. The repair is possible, but not all shops offer it, and the result depends on the condition of the upper and the type of glue.

If you like the fit of a particular casual shoe and want a chance at resoling later, choose one with a smooth, flat sole edge rather than a spongy foam midsole. Foam midsoles can crumble with age, which makes the resole unnecessary because the midsole itself is worn out.

Molded shoes: not resoleable

Molded soles are made by injecting molten rubber or polyurethane around the upper, or by vulcanizing the sole onto the upper. The sole and the upper become one piece. When the tread wears flat, there is no way to separate the sole without destroying the shoe. These shoes are effectively disposable once the sole is gone. Many athletic shoes, rain boots, and budget casual shoes use molded soles. They are comfortable and often waterproof, but they are not resoleable.

If you want a boot or shoe that will last many years, avoid molded construction. Shoes that cannot be resoled should be purchased with the expectation that the whole pair will be replaced when the sole wears out.

How to tell before you buy

You can identify the construction in a few minutes without any special tools. Use these checks when you are considering a pair, and read the product description for construction terms.

• Look at the sole edge in the store. A visible seam or welt means resoleable; a clean glued line means cemented; a fused one-piece edge means molded.
• Check the heel. Leather stacked heels are usually on welted shoes and can be replaced. A rubber heel that wraps around the sole is often molded.
• Bend the shoe. A welted shoe flexes at the ball with a slight crease in the upper. A molded shoe may have some flex in the sole, but the sole edge stays attached.
• Read the description for the words Goodyear welt, Blake stitch, cemented, or injection molded.
• Ask the maker or the store. Many makers say directly whether a shoe can be resoled.

When resoling is worth it

Resoling makes sense when the upper still fits well and shows little damage. For a welted dress shoe or work boot, the upper can last for many years, which is why the upfront cost is justified. For a cemented shoe, the resole is only worthwhile if the upper is clean and the shoe is comfortable. For a molded shoe, skip the repair and buy a new pair.

The shoe sole construction methods guide covers these methods in more depth, and the leather sole vs. rubber sole comparison explains how the choice of sole material affects wear. If you notice uneven wear or a separating sole, see the shoe sole replacement signs page. The following guides will help you choose shoes that are built to be resoled.

What to pick for your use

Questions

What is a Goodyear welt?

A Goodyear welt is a leather strip that is stitched to both the upper and the insole, then the outsole is stitched to the welt. This design lets a cobbler replace the outsole without touching the upper.

Can every leather shoe be resoled?

No. A leather shoe with a cemented sole may be resoleable if the upper is intact, but a leather shoe with a molded sole cannot be separated. Check the sole construction rather than the upper material.

How can I tell if a sole is cemented or molded?

Cemented soles show a thin glue line between the sole and upper, while molded soles have no boundary at all. Bend the shoe; a cemented sole will flex at the glue line, a molded sole flexes as a single piece.

Do resoled shoes last as long as new ones?

A resole by a competent shop will last as long as the original sole, and the comfortable upper remains. The shoe will feel the same, so many owners find a resoled pair outlasts a new pair that needs a break-in.