How to Re-Waterproof Boots After Washing

Why washing removes the water-repellent finish

Most boots are not naturally waterproof. They rely on a Durable Water Repellent (DWR) coating or a waterproof membrane. The DWR coating sits on the outer fabric or leather and causes water to bead up and roll off. Washing strips this coating, so the upper absorbs moisture instead of repelling it.

Waterproof membranes, such as those in many hiking or work boots, keep water out from the inside, but the outer layer still benefits from a DWR finish. Without it, the outer fabric becomes waterlogged, which can make the boot heavier and less breathable. Re-waterproofing restores the outer layer so your boots stay drier and last longer. For more on how waterproofing works, see our comparison of waterproof vs. water-resistant shoes.

Prepare your boots before re-waterproofing

Before you apply any treatment, your boots must be clean and completely dry. Dirt, dust, and old conditioner block the waterproofing product from penetrating the upper. Wash off surface dirt with a damp cloth, or use a cleaner made for your boot material. Let your boots dry fully at room temperature. Do not use a heater or direct sunlight, which can crack leather and warp synthetic materials. Stuff them with newspaper or shoe trees to help them hold their shape as they dry, as explained in our guide to drying wet shoes properly.

Once dry, remove the laces and open the boots fully. This gives you access to the entire upper, including the tongue and the area around the ankle. Cover any parts you do not want to treat, such as exposed lining or fabric collars, with masking tape. Work in a ventilated area, ideally outdoors or in a garage, since waterproofing sprays contain solvents.

Choose the right treatment for your boot material

Not all waterproofing products work on all materials. Smooth leather takes wax, cream, or spray. Suede and nubuck need a spray designed for those materials, because wax or cream will flatten the nap and darken the finish. Fabric boots, such as canvas or nylon, take a standard fabric waterproofing spray.

Read the label on your boots or check the manufacturer's website for material care recommendations. If you are unsure, a spray labeled for multi-surface use is the safest choice. For detailed guidance on treating different uppers, see our articles on how to waterproof leather shoes, how to waterproof suede boots, and how to keep work boots leather supple.

Apply spray treatments in thin, even coats

Spray waterproofing is the easiest option for most boots. Hold the can about six to eight inches (15 to 20 cm) from the boot and apply a light, even coat. Do not soak the upper. Over-spraying can leave a residue and slow drying. Let the first coat dry for the time stated on the can, usually 20 to 40 minutes, then apply a second coat. Two thin coats work better than one heavy coat.

For suede and nubuck, apply a slightly heavier coat but still in layers, and brush the nap gently after the final coat dries. Use a suede brush to lift the fibers and restore the original look. For fabric boots, a spray is all you need. For more detail on spray technique, see our dedicated article on how to apply waterproofing spray correctly.

Apply wax or cream to smooth leather

Wax and cream are better for smooth leather that needs extra conditioning. Wax provides a durable, water-repellent barrier, while cream adds moisture and a soft shine. Apply a small amount to a soft cloth. Rub it into the leather with circular motions, covering the entire upper, including the seams and the area where the upper meets the sole. Pay extra attention to the toe and the heel, where water hits first.

Let the wax or cream sit for the time listed on the product, often 10 to 20 minutes. Then buff with a clean cloth or a horsehair brush to remove excess product. Too much wax can clog the pores of the leather and make it stiff, so start with a thin layer and add more only if needed. For a deeper dive into waxing, see our guide on how to wax leather boots.

Common mistakes to avoid when re-waterproofing

Re-waterproofing goes wrong when you rush or skip preparation. Applying product to damp leather traps moisture and prevents the treatment from bonding. Over-spraying can leave a sticky film that attracts dirt. Using the wrong product for the material, such as wax on suede, ruins the texture. Always allow each coat to dry fully, and test a small area first if you are using a new product.

Avoid these common pitfalls:

• Skipping the cleaning step leaves dirt that blocks the waterproofing.
• Using a heat source to speed up drying can crack leather and warp synthetics.
• Applying too many heavy coats can clog the upper and reduce breathability.
• Forgetting to treat the seams often causes water to sneak in even when the surface beads.

Test the finish and reapply regularly

After the treatment dries, test the finish. Sprinkle a few drops of water on the upper. If the water beads up and rolls off, the waterproofing worked. If the water soaks in, apply another coat and re-test. Repeat until the surface repels water consistently.

Re-waterproofing is not a one-time fix. Heavy use, rain, and washing all reduce the effectiveness of the DWR finish. As a rule, reapply after every wash and every two to three months for boots you wear regularly, or sooner if the water stops beading. Proper care extends the life of your boots and keeps your feet dry. For more on maintaining specific types of boots, check our guides to best waterproof shoes, best work boots, and best ankle boots.

What to pick for your use

Questions

How often should I re-waterproof my boots?

Reapply after every wash, and every two to three months for boots you wear regularly. If water stops beading on the surface, it is time to re-waterproof.

Can I use wax on suede boots?

No. Wax or cream will flatten the nap and darken suede and nubuck. Use a spray product designed for suede and nubuck instead.

Do I need to re-waterproof boots with a waterproof membrane?

Yes. The membrane keeps water out from the inside, but the outer fabric still needs a DWR finish to stop the upper from becoming waterlogged. Re-waterproofing the outer layer keeps your boots lighter and more breathable.

How long does waterproofing take to dry?

Most sprays dry in 20 to 40 minutes per coat. Waxes and creams may need 10 to 20 minutes before buffing. Always follow the drying time on the product label.

What if water still soaks in after two coats?

Wait for the second coat to dry completely, then test again. If water still soaks in, the boot may need a third coat, or the product may not be suitable for the material. Check that the upper is clean and dry, and consider using a different waterproofing product designed for that specific material.